Root Treatment Method for Engine Oil Leakage

Engine oil leakage not only causes oil loss and engine compartment pollution, but long-term leakage can also exacerbate component wear, leading to abnormal noise, overheating, and even engine scrapping. The core of curing oil leakage is "precise positioning of the leakage point, targeted treatment, and standardized construction", avoiding blind replacement of parts. The following are universal and efficient curing methods that are suitable for various types of fuel engines.

1、 Step 1: Accurately locate the leakage point (prerequisite for cure)

The key to eradicating oil leakage is to identify the source of the leak and avoid misjudgment. Firstly, clean the oil stains on the surface of the engine, rinse the engine compartment with a high-pressure water gun (low-pressure mode), dry it off, start the engine, idle for 10-15 minutes, and observe the leakage location.

Common leakage points and characteristics: crankshaft oil seal (oil leakage at the front and rear ends, attached to the belt or gearbox joint), valve cover gasket (oil leakage at the top of the cylinder head, oil stains flowing down along the side wall of the cylinder body), oil pan gasket (large area leakage at the bottom), oil filter/drain screw (oil dripping around the periphery), camshaft oil seal (oil leakage at the front end of the cylinder head).

If the leakage is not obvious, talcum powder can be applied to the suspected leakage point, and the wet position of the powder can be observed after operation to accurately lock the leakage source.

2、 Step 2: Treat the root cause according to the leakage point (core step)

1. Aging of sealing gasket/sealing ring (the most common cause)

The aging and hardening of sealing components such as valve cover gasket, oil pan gasket, and camshaft oil seal are the main causes of oil leakage. Root cure method: Replace with brand new original seals, clean the oil stains and carbon deposits on the sealing surface before installation, apply special sealant (thin and uniform), tighten the bolts according to the original factory torque, and avoid uneven stress on the sealing surface.

2. Crankshaft oil seal leakage (difficult)

Front oil seal leakage: Remove the crankshaft pulley and timing cover, replace the new oil seal, ensure that the oil seal is tightly attached to the crankshaft journal, and apply lubricating grease to prevent dry wear; Rear oil seal leakage: It is necessary to lift down the gearbox and replace the oil seal while checking the rear flange surface of the crankshaft. If there is wear, it needs to be repaired and reinstalled to avoid further leakage.

3. Oil filter/drain screw leakage

Poor sealing or aging of the oil filter, replace the original filter directly and tighten it; If the oil drain screw is loose or the sealing ring is damaged, replace it with a new sealing ring and tighten it to the standard torque to avoid slipping.

4. Cracks and leaks in the cylinder block/cylinder head (severe cases)

If there are cracks in the cylinder block or cylinder head that cause oil leakage, minor cracks can be repaired with epoxy resin. If the stressed area or long cracks need to be replaced, the cylinder block/cylinder head should be completely eliminated to completely eradicate the source of the leakage.

3、 Step 3: Construction standards and post prevention (to avoid recurrence)

During construction, it is necessary to ensure that the sealing surface is clean and dry, and the use of auxiliary factory accessories (poor material, easy aging) is prohibited; Bolts must be tightened in the prescribed order and torque, and disposable bolts must be replaced.

Post production prevention: Regularly replace the original engine oil that meets the specifications to avoid corrosion of seals by inferior engine oil; Regularly check the condition of the seals, with a focus on checking the crankshaft oil seal and valve cover gasket when driving over 80000 kilometers; Avoid long-term high-temperature operation of the engine and reduce the aging rate of seals.

After the cure, start the engine and let it idle for 30 minutes. If there is no leakage after rechecking, it is considered a complete cure.